Trek to Kheerganga - 7.8.9 Nov 2013

Himalayas chose me again I believe. I had been working on multiple plans and pinging multiple people for a trek near Diwali for almost a month, but eventually it turned out me trekking with a totally different gang and equally different place to trek. The story goes like:

A long vacation in my head, but no heads towards the Beas kund trek I was planning post Diwali. I was disappointed and even considering to go alone, but god blessed showers when a delhi friend 'Lalit' confirmed his availability. I kept polite as I knew personally it was a hard trek to do this time of the year. Days passed and it came to light 3 other of his friends will also join and also suggestions poured in for an alternate trek as most of us were amateur trekkers. An unknown trek (to me) with a simple itinery, with stay in forest house and also an extra day to plan for my long awaited paraglide. I was so much convinced with the idea as if some stars conspired for the surprises I was to meet in the Himalayas.

So it was a gang of 6 : Me (Gagan), Lalit, Nishant, Chhavi, Ishita and Somya who met in Mandi on 7th Nov morning with an interesting start (which I never had) from Ishita's home where we all freshened up and had amazing food and tea. Amazed by the hospitality of uncle and aunty, but I wanted to get out of luxury as early, coz I knew the real adventure will start only when we are out in the woods. Weather forecasts at Pulga weren't promising, but it was important we step out and analyse conditions ourselves. We hopped into the cab at around 10.00 to start our journey to Pulga, that was around 100Kms from Mandi. We took short breaks as we found an interestingly hanging bridge over the beas river. On the other side was a small village named 'aut'.

The hanging bridge

Then to the temple of hanogi, then another stop to check out a small river stream and then in Kasol. Here in kasol we got some snacks and fruits and also tried some local momos. Finally we were at foothills of Pulga (Bershaini) at around 2.30pm.

It was a small climb of a km or so, under a light drizzle, to the small village of Pulga.



After dumping our stuff in forest house of Pulga, thanks to Mr.Meghnath the caretaker at the forest house,  we went out to check some place to eat as we all were really hungry. Pulga was a nice small village with really friendly people, plus there were some foreign groups having their cozy long stays (a group from Japan and another from Italy I remember). Foreign effect was so visible, that the menu of a small restaurant had indian, thai, Chinese and Italian cuisines listed. We ordered some sandwiches, tea and pizzas there. It was damn cold and we beseated ourselves inside a small oven kitchen right in front, that made us cozy and energized for our chit-chat that just continued for long.

the oven, the fresh buns, the sandwiches

The freshly made buns from the oven and the pizzas added more to it. Our random talks continued till our dinner time. It started raining heavy and later on snowed as well. People were enjoying every bit of it, but my concerns were for the trek that was planned for the next day.

'Lost' at Marigold

We were so overwhelmed in our talks that we even forgot to order our dinner while seated for about an hour at another small restaurant near our stay, 'Marigold restaurant'. The instance that was hilarious in itself and we remembered it during our entire trip..





8th Nov 7.30am
No alarms were set and I missed the early morning view, but not to be disappointed, the view was still afresh with a blanket of snow engulfing the entire surrounding. Everyone got excited with the first lifetime encounters of snow, that too just outside our hut. It was still cloudy and it seemed, it may rain again..

The landscape changed overnight at Pulga

After a few clicks, we decided to do a small timed trek after tea and go to Manali today itself after that. While having tea at Devraj, we came to know about the stay options at Kheerganga. So the plan now changed. We will start trekking towards Khirganga till conditions support us. If we make it to top, we'll stay there, else we'll come back and stay at Pulga. Mr.Meghnath helped us arrange a guide. We did a quick pack of our stuff and started our trek around 10.30am. As we moved, the weather started to open up and we could see some portion of sky.

On top of Dam

During the start of the trek we crossed an under construction Dam. It was a noisy place with crane movements and other machinery. After it was a light trek for about 4-5 kms.

stream beyond the Dam

Our surrounding was still snowy. I could see a village at some distance, fully covered in snow. Later on I realized its the Tosh village where many foreign trekkers make their stay. I was tailing the group as all were new to trekking. The girls were impressive as they trekked pretty quickly, but I had to time and again sweep Nishant who was finding it hard to climb. The sun was out and clouds vanished. It was a clear day now and I was sure we'll reach to the top without any problem. I chatted with another groups which we met on the way. These guys were from Manali and were quick trekkers.

Rudra nag

On the way we crossed another village and then we made a halt at Rudra-Nag. This place had a small water-fall, of whose shape it go its name.

The fall that gave this place its name

As per our guide, this place was an important religious spot and the water from the fall was holy.

















We took some sips and were now heading towards the snowy part of the trek.

scary bridge

The start itself was scary when we had to cross a snowed bridge over a violent stream. We stepped carefully and now was start of a real ascend. It was among the woods we climbed, surrounded by snow all around. The trail was fine to start, but later it was all in snow. It was also my first trek on snow, so I couldn't throw any tips but the people learned and adapted pretty well and did a slow and careful ascend. I had to tail again as the snowy track made things even more tricky for Nishant. But that also gave me many opportunities to cherish  the so beautiful surrounding. I climbed few meters and then waited for Nishant to come, meanwhile I used to sit and observe the snow around and the trees and the falling leaves from here and there reminding that it was autumn and trees were shedding already.

Now the trail was flatter, with small sections of climb and after about an hour we reached a small settlement where one guy lived with his family and was serving tea and Maggi.. Just before that was a tricky wooden path over a small waterfall full with snow again.. This small settlement with a platform in front gave an amazing site to sit and enjoy tea.. we had a cup and without wasting any time continued, although our guides relaxed to enjoy their Maggi..

Rule of trekking.. 'Cow first'

Soon after the start there was a herd of cattle that passed by, notoriously, leaving not even an inch for us on trail, eventually everyone had to find a place here or there.. few hundred metres we trekked and there was another herd, this time smaller one.. although our plan was to stick together now, but it turned out same duo groups eventually.. ishita.saumya, chhavi.lalit, and me.nishant (god!).. Yea the story continued..

I trekked carefully, waited and enjoyed the surrounding then continued.. but this time we had a guide as well so I could walk longer stretches, unload my bag and wait.. even talked with two shepherds I found on the way.. I observed they were wearing normal shoes and clothes but proficiently travelled through the snowy woods.. their sheeps were many feet below near the water stream.. They were smartly pelling down stones to keep the herd moving forward while they walked along the trail.. wow
Eventually I reached a junction where another trail met to our.. I waited there for the guide to know the details.. He told me that's another route entirely through forest, tougher than the one we took.. also since it freshly snowed last night, it will keep falling from the trees and we may be drenched (even hit) on that way.. also it adds to slipperiness..

The sky was visible now, I knew we were close to top now.. I decided to now reach the top and wait there only.. within no time I reached to the top..

Kheerganga first view

The first view.. the best part of any trek, the view of your destination.. It started with a small wooden hut, beyond which there was enormous amount of snow spread profusely all around the place.. a small trail between lead to the eventual huts to stay, apart from that the entire cover was very fresh and untouched.. I could imagine the meadows hidden under the snow that covered this place.. I continued on the trail enjoy the 360 degree view that was visible now as we were above the forest line.. all around were peaks laden with ice, below the clear sky that I think just got us lucky..

Chhavi off-route

I could see lalit waiting at the top and chavvi also continuing her hike on a different path.. we yelled her to come back on route..

Once we 5 were there, we just moved into a hut where lalit had already arranged for the night.. This was a cozy place with a metal tandoor with burning woods inside.. we just sat around and waited for our tea and pizzas (damn u find them every where :).. and how can I forget the breads given by Ishita's Mom.. healthy, tasty and filing.. so and so, they lasted till the last day of the trip..

Gyaan session indside the hut

The talks started again, while we enjoyed the slices and the tea. An hour later we realized Nishant hasn't come yet. It was getting dark and we had plans to take bath at the natural geysers as well.. me and ishita went out for his search.. We yelled around for a while, went all the way till the temple where the hot water pool was there, checked all the huts while coming back, but all waste.. then the news came, he was at the hut which was below, at the first view place.. Okay, we were pissed of a little, but you hardly get angry after reaching a fine place like this.. :)

We rushed towards the pool to finish the bath. I optimized it well so that while going in and after coming out there should be minimal time i spend bare in the freezingly cold place.. The pool was soothing, not a burning one as I expected.. Its hard to imagine taking bath in a pool for 30 minutes with freezing temperatures and surroundings full of snow.. Was a really memorable experience and we stayed in luxury time although it was pitch dark now.. After the bath was done, we went back slowly walking on snow in that dark with our torches and sat beside the firing oven in the hut.. Time for another tea and our talks.. Another gang of 4 then just arrived in that dark.. These people were without any guide so they lost their way and hence so late.. The talks lasted for long and our amazing games too.. we kept munching stuff so I felt the need of that nature call.. A unique one, in that pitch dark freezing cold I went on a side snow patch and also turned off my torch.. :P
How can I miss to mention the sky that night, the dense view of stars again.. a perfect time as it was damn dark, away from city lights on a clear night and that altitude.. We cherished it for a while before dealing with the tandoors of our room that were throwing all smoke inside only.. and also, the dogs who had their cozy time on beds before us..
The scary night.. There were rumours about bears in the area, apart from that some or the other sounds were coming in the dark bedrooms where we slept.. sounds of wind hitting the metal walls and at times dogs scratching the doors.. It all piled up and I got this amazing dream, being caught by some animals from outside.. I shouted hell and scared all people around me.. it was close to morning so after that anybody hardly slept..

The daylight hit and I wanted to go out early to witness the sunrise.. And as I never got dissapointed, early morning view of himalayas at its best.. there was no wind and no clouds.. a clear undisturbed view  to witness.. we went around to untouched sections of snow and click some photos.. and then was beauty at its best.. the first rays of sun hitting on the snow peaks towards the west and it kept growing.. the transition was a delight and worth taking a pause..

Morning delight

Now was time to turn back to hut and plan our return.. We had our tea and discussed.. People were little skeptical about getting down on snow as it was expected to be slippery and more chances to slip while going down the slope.. That was enough of theory as you realize only when you start.. we decided to start early, but still packing and talking and eating took a while and we stepped start at around 9.30.. The snow area (we called the military climb) was where people carefully stepped, but to my surprise the girls were again really swift on that.. Nishant and me and a guide, we took leisure time.. I remember sitting at a cross route and watching the falling leaves from random trees.. some fell quickly and some took eternity to reach the ground, once separated from the branch.. that sight and that place will remain memorable..

I also asked lalit and chhavi to keep waiting on the way as there were alternate routes I observed during the climb.. After the tea hut that we found mid-way, all the girls decided to lead with one guide and we three followed.. actually me and Lalit also moved forward till Rudra-nag to have our maggi there..

The intense stream and the effect of autumn.. best capture..

The slippery bridge over the intense stream right before Rudra Nag was my concern, but it hardly had any snow on it now so it seemed a child's play.. We had our Maggi and waited for Nishant to come.. He took his time so we asked him to meet us finally at Pulga as he had a guide along.. Network was available now, so we could contact the girls ahead and made our plans.. Ishita took care of booking a cab till manikaran and also they decided to bring all the luggage from the village to bershaini where the cab will pick us.. We walked forward swiftly to catch-up with the girls but there was now a sudden twist in weather.. It was kind of a thunderstorm, with snow and wind that suddenly struck.. It didnt stay for long, but as I was carrying the raincoats and first-aid, so decided to wait for Nishant.. that was a long wait and here the guide with Nishant dropped to a village.. Now we three were moving forward at a really slow pace.. It felt little harsh on girls so me or lalit had to lead now to reach Pulga and help out.. I decided to move forward.. I was trekking at my natural pace now that felt wonderful.. I just kept walking continuously and reached the dam.. from the top I realized lalit was also following me, pissed off with nishant's slow pace.. "patience.. a virtue of trekkers, not easy to tackle at times.. "

I continued and reached the village where a load of things needed to take care.. packing, baggage, guide, check out and some hungry souls.. phew it was very well handled and we reached down to the cab where lalit and nishant were waiting.. It was 5pm and we started our cab ride to manikaran..

Later part of the story is about the bus rides to Manali, freshen up finally and be the studs.













Our paraglidings next was another adventure, followed by visit to Hadimba, shopping and back..

There were numerous small instances that I can't forget, including the ride back on that volvo, that was also not simply done.. we chatted the entire night till 4am when finally I departed from this amazing group.. Seems our destinies were waiting and we all landed together in a trip never thought of and it turned out to be one of the best trip of our life.. Hope we continue ahead from here to more elaborate plans.. :)